Que Hubo Erika | Bike Expedition of the Americas

The Waiting Place

We are still in Morelia, MX. Here is how Dr. Seuss very perfectly put the place we are in……

The Waiting Place…for people just waiting.

Waiting for a train to go or a bus to come, or a plane to go or the mail to come, or the rain to go or the phone to ring, or the snow to snow or waiting around for a Yes or No or waiting for their hair to grow. Everyone is just waiting.

I sure hope this box arrives before Friday. We are waiting for the heaven sent post man to deliver a box with a new tent Will has let Oki borrow since we found out his in no longer water resistant. Currently, the box is in customs (hopefully still containing everythign we sent for) we will wait till Friday and if by then we can’t track it we will leave without it.

While waiting the other day we met some protesters outside the Grand Cathedral in the city center. They were protesting the Federal Government because it had closed their place of employment over 9 months ago without warning and they are left jobless. As the story goes Labour Unions here in Mexico sometimes demand higher wages, rights and more from the government. They are huge and often very powerful with of course corruption. The President Fellipe Calderon had decided to shut down the union along with the electric company Luz y Fuerza. Luz y Fuerza employed hundreds of peole and a great percentage of the town of Tepuxtepec, MX. Oscar spent a day with the protesters who were looking for solidarity in the great plaza. We heard them talk about their struggles to survive without a job, they told us of their inability to find other jobs because of the black list they have become part of due to the President’s actions. Some people have commited suicide, others slipped into deep depression and almost all of the children belonging to these families no longer attend school because their families can not afford it.

I think its great that they are uniting. However, I am overwhelmed by the unfairness I see daily. I see machismo, and inequality of women, bribery with police and government an now unfair lay offs and muder by the Federal government. I spent one day being quite sad and at the same time very grateful for where I grew up. I can’t fix it all. It’s hard to pass through so many communities in need. To recognise their struggles and pedal past. I know I can’t fix it all so I am at ease with supporting them with my presence and telling their story.

It’s difficult to face so vivedly and often the inequalities of life

Writes Rita Golden Gelman in her book Tales of a Female Nomad: Livivng at Large in the World. I am in complete accord with her. Here are our latest fotos and I leave you with Dr.Seuss and his grand wishes for us.

No! That’s not for you!
Somehow you’ll escape all that waiting and staying. You’ll find the bright places where Boom Bands are playing. With banner flip-flapping, once more you’ll ride high! Ready for anything under the sky. Ready because you’re that kind of a guy!

By admin on July 14, 2010 | Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Time to Continue

It is time. Behind me I can hear the fountain that is placed in the walkway of Callejon de Romance and which ads such a soothing sound to a mind full of logistics and chaos. Im perched on our rooftop home in Morelia, MX which is in the state of Michoacan. Our street is made of stones and only big enough for pedestrians its romantic and enchanting.
We are staying with our dear friend Fausto, another cyclist whon we met in Guerrero Negro of Baja California Sur about 2 months and a half ago. Its good to be back after such a long break. Oki is completely healed from hi rabies scare and dog b ite and I have filled my love cup after spending a month with family friends and Rodrigo in Alaska. Here is Oscar in the doorway of his house he called home in Guadalajara, MX for the month.

Where he spent many days fighting the side effects of the rabies vaccine. He became part of the barrio and learned a lot about water conservation and gained insight into why it is difficult for people to accomplish their goals and create better opportunity.
In Alaska i spent a month looking funding for the tour. I planted a herb garden for my parents and installed a doggy poo composting bin at home. I felt overwhelming thanks for the luxuries running clean water, a washing machine and my comfortable bed. I am more conscience now of a simple minimalist lifestyle. I am even moré aware of how fortunate I am to have grown up as an American in the USA and particularly in Alaska.

Time To Go
Next week because of our month long delay we will be leaving Morelia by bus. We will pedal to Guatemal from the border town of Tapachula, MX.

While it is unfortunate that we will not be able to see moré Of Mexico we have learned and experienced a lot about this country. México is a vast country with rainbows of people and culture. To generalise is impossible. We have met generous, warm, giving Mexicans who are inspirong for their strength and drive for success against all odds. The machismo is obvious and although not welcomed, it is unfortunately accepted. I fight the belittling looks, whistles and injustices towards women with beauty, confidence and often hard and harsh words many men are not used to.

Our next highlight is the Lake of Atitlan in Guatemala. We have several days of climbing ahead of us coupled with the flooding rains of the rainy season. Wish us luck, you will be on our minds and in our hearts as we hit the road once more. Love Love Love

By admin on July 8, 2010 | Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

One Third of Our Tour is Complete

One Third of the tour is complete. We have pedaled 3,400km. This is by far the greatest athletic accomplishment of my life. However, it isn’t just physical strength that I have increased. During these last 3 months I have learned a lot in several areas of life. For starters I have learned about bike mechanics and ergonomics from warn out chains and soar knees. I’ve learned about climatology and astronomy by spending the vast majority of the last 4 months outdoors day and night. I’ve learned the culinary art of cooking on a MSR (stove designed to boil water very quickly) and most recently with Oki mastered eggs sunny side up.

I’ve learned about my caloric needs from lightheaded hunger rides after too small a breakfast and non productive afternoons after galletas and cerveza. I’ve learned how to hug the road as it curves downhill like a road cyclist does in the races. I’ve increased my Spanish vocabulary through daily practice in Mexico. I’ve learned about behavioural economics through bargaining and people watching in the Mexican streets. I’ve learned to be tough even when I feel small against macho men. I’ve learned to control emotion when I am in need of rest and food through long days in the desert heat. I’ve learned to problem solve with limited resources. I’ve learned how blessed I am to have the opportunity and spirit to have a dream, and set a goal that is achievable such as this. I’ve learned that hard work is the essence of pride.

Puero Vallarta

The last day to Puerto Vallarta was less than enjoyable. I cried, I yelled I hyperventilated at seeing my speed stay the same and my energy decrease with no real idea of how long it would be until I reached the end of the last climb. Drenched in sweat and feeling sick to my stomach I felt defeated. Nonetheless, I had to continue riding. By the time I finished the day and reached Oki who had begun to worry about me I was too drained to even celebrate. I hugged Oki and cried getting it all out that was the only way I could continue. It was terrible but worth it. I would do it again just to be able to feel proud of myself for now completing 3,400km and making it to the 1/3 marker in Puerto Vallarta.

Today I am in Anchorage. I arrived here last week. Its time now for a vacation. Oki is still in Mexico spending time with the lovely Laura. They will be riding from Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara, MX. I will meet Oki and the bikes again in Morelia on June 6th. Oki and I have talked about skipping Michoacan due to the new travel warnings and insider info about road conditions of the MEX 200.

I have finally uploaded all of our photos so have a look:

By admin on May 27, 2010 | Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Im on a hot rollercoaster only im riding a bike

I don’t think my chamois will make it to Puerto Vallarta. You should see them all worn out and sun damaged….alot like myself actually. It´s hot here! Yesterday my barometer read 107F when we were at the peak of our ride. At this temperature I was really struggling. To be honest, I was not having fun anymore. The thought of hitch hiking to Puerto Vallarta was becoming quite common in my cloudy heat exhausted mind. Actually the last three days have been mentally exhausting like my good friend Anthony put it; `trying to maintain a Buddah like demeanor’ when dealing with pain, exhaustion, anxiety and danger. Nonetheless we have met some of the most generous people yet.

Big Mexico

Since we arrived in the big Mexico I have felt out of sorts. There are more people, more poverty, more trash, and a feeling of being less significant on such a large continent. We have however, been riding on a straight black flat freeway. On the brighter side there is an abundant array of new food and especially fruit to try. I think I have sampled 4 varieties of mangos so far. They just fall off the trees on the side of the road. Its sweet.

The People

Like I said before we have been blessed everyday by generous Mexicans. The crazy sailor in Puerto Vallarta was right….just tell them what you need and they shall provide even more than you asked for. Mexicans from what I can see really look out for each other. In Escuinapa we were told that camping beneath a tent that by days is a seafood stand would keep us safe. When we approached the owners they not only agreed, but offered their home, dinner, showers (the best shower of my life with just a bucket and a drain), and la alberca to wash our clothes. They had very little but they lived well and wanted everything they had. The father of the household said goodbye the next mornig with a tear in his eye and assured us we were like family. Kindness and selflessness like I have never seen before. When we havent stayed with a family PEMEX; the only petrol station in Mexico which has public bathroom and showers has served as our home and the workers have been more than helpful. Today we are staying not in a grungy PEMEX but a beautiful colonial house with a pool in San Blas. While we were in the plaza and my heart was breaking as i watched starved parched dogs on the street and attempted to give them water a sweet voice said ‘ you love them dont you?’ It was Carmen’s voice. A sweet middle aged single mother with a sun in Santa Cruz, CA. We talked about how it was mothers day and he had not called. I assured her we was thinking of her and explained that although I am far from my mum and often communication is tough I am grateful and love her still. I gave her a hug and wished her a Happy Mother´s Day since her son could not. She cried and thanked me. She invited us to stay at thier grand family home here in San Blas.

All in all this is hard. Riding everyday is hard. Thinking about what to buy that wont go off and where we will sleep is hard. At the end of the day however we are blessed and priviliged for the opportunity to safely execute this adventure.

one day you can be hunched over the MSR cooking chilaquilles meters away from a poo turd in the parking lot of a PEMEX station, and the next you are devouring your fourth mango poolside in a beautiful home with a bed waiting to give you rest

I think thats what keeps us going. The good outways the bad and we can pedal on.

By admin on May 9, 2010 | Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

On land again and loving it

Tonight as I fall asleep the salty air from the Sea of Cortez will creep in through the hatch in the floor of the deck over my bed. Just outide the stars will fill the night sky and the moon will lay her white glistening carpet of light on the water. All around are 125 sailboats of all shapes and sizes from around the world. They spin delicately as the wind tickles thier masts. Each mast is illuminated at the very tip with a light that could be confused for a star. Further out on land, crickets are chirping thier tune and palm fronds are swaying in sweet rythymn.

An entry from my journal aboard The Blue Dolphin which we have been crewing for the last week. We had a few days of calm wind in which we kayaked to land and explored beautiful coastlines. There was one day of 20knot winds where we got to use all 3 sails. Oscar was the main decky; he restled a boom in rough seas ontop of the pilot house, held down a loose anchor that the jib line had become attached too while harnessed in on the forward deck. He even has official sailing shoes now. We learned a lot and met several sweet and adventurous cruisers in Puerto Escondido where we ended our sailng adventure to head south once again.

Today we have arrived in Mazatlan, MX by ferry from Baja California. Its humid and hot, but on the other hand there are also a lot of wild palm trees, fresh cocos and a new coastline to explore.

By admin on May 5, 2010 | Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Leaving on a Sailboat

After these last 2 weeks of rest in La Paz we are hitting the road again…this time we are trading our bike tires for the waves on the Sea of Cortez on a 58 foot sailboat. We will be sailing with our gracious hosts from La Paz; Robert and Kathy. They are two people who have a great passion for life that they want to share with others. We are going to learn how to sail and live sustainably aboard this ship. We hope to end up on the Mexican mainland and continue to ride south to our next pit stop in Puerto Vallarta.

La Paz has treated us so well. These streets are filled with music that we wake to each morning on our rooftop (Robert and Kathy’s rental) . At night the moon tucks us in and the sun sometimes very rudely wakes us up. Oki has become one of the locals, he knows the guys from the boatyard, the kids from the bike shop and has been able to capture beautiful portraits of life. Tonight the Malecon (waterfront) was filled with Mexican music, kids riding bikes and rollerblading. Young people leaning out the widows of cars yelling and waving just to add to the feel of excitment and life of this city on another beautiful Saturday. I am grateful that we stopped here. Its been such a reward to our jourey. From my journal: This ~3400km has changed me. The desert changed me. The open blue sky changed me. The other day I opened my eyes and was very aware of where I was and who I was. I felt strong and accomplished. I am happy.

We pedelled through 3 deserts, we’ve fought the headwinds across flat plains. We’ve climbed up up and over to the sea of ortez twice. We’ve literally almost been airborn with the help of gusty tailwinds propelling us to 35kmph with no effort. For a lot of the last 500km our team of two has become a team of 5 and travelling with Fausto, Pacall and Anthony as terrific. Now we head our separate ways but will meet up on the mainland. Tonight I am in the haul of our sailboat. Tomorow we set sail. All I can hear are the delicate seas beneath us and through my hatch i can see the stars. Thank you for coming with me. Unti next time.

By admin on April 25, 2010 | Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Loreto, Baja California Sur

Have you every been somewhere so beautiful you had to pinch yourself to make sure you weren´t dreaming. I have had several of those moments lately.
There is something about turquoise water that makes a scene so unreal. We stayed on a beach about 4 meters from the water at a cost of around about 2 USD. We were coraled by mexican families celebrating Semana Santa. The smell of sea salt mixed with fresh winds and food in the air were complimented by rancheros, nortenos and quebraditas playing from all sides of the playa. Latinos have a spirit for life that is so bold. If we feel happy we dance with everything we´ve got. If we want to cheer its at the top of our lungs. We love with mind body and soul. It was delightful to be surrounded by others who feel and act the same way.
Oki and I set out in the afternoon on a snorkeling excursion. We swam through shallow water and climbed over an island on hot rocks testing our bear crawling abilities. The sun baked us but we knew ther was more of that turquoise water on the other side. When we finally made it we let ourselves float in relief like amphibians. Beneath us another world was wide awake. We saw several different kinds of fish. Oki saw a big sting ray. I was stung by something I never saw cross my path. Snorkeling has to be one of my favourites things in the world. Fausto had set out on kayak at the same time we left shore and as if we had set an appointment there he was. We all traded snorleking swimming and climbing up on the kayak in some of the most beautiful landscapes Baja Californa Sur has to offer.
Today we are in Loreto, BCS. It has a population of 15,000 right on the coast with a lovely promenade where you can fish or just watch the water with a cup of coffee. We are staying in an RV park with other Alaskans can you believe it! Tomorrow we will continue to head south and stop off for another rest day before we start the 200 mile treck through desert again to La Paz.

On another note. The Que Hubo tour is feeling an economic pinch. We are not sure that we will be able to make it all the way to Colombia due to the cost of living. We save as much as possible by buying groceries and camping for free. Our new strategy is to use couch surfing more often and spend less on food although the latter is difficult when we burn so many calories a day. We need your help. There are a few things you can do.

contribute 10.00USD or more to keep us going by clicking on Contribute on the main site
email us with ideas about finding work abroad in La Paz, Los Cabos, or Puerto Vallarta MX if you have experience
let us know if you know of any woofing opportunities in Mexico
organise a place to stay with any one you know in Mexico or Central America

Thank you to those of you who have already contributed. You are keeping us going. We have invested all we have into this adventure and it is paying off in many ways. Both Oki and I have decided to self publish books. Mine will be The Ladies Guide To Bike Touring, with tricks and hints of exactly how to travel affordably and comfortably. I will let Oscar tell you about his in the future.We are growing in many ways and look forward to telling stories, sharing fotos and ideas with you.

Until next time. Over and Out.

Click here for fotos http://www.flickr.com/photos/37864853@N00/

By admin on April 6, 2010 | Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Desert Chellenges Us

Until this point I did not understand the meaning of desert or challenge. The last 4 days have been the hardest yet. After Ensenada starts the desert. Currently temperatures are as high as 87F and the humidity is zero. We have travelled across some vast deserts lined with tall pitch fork-like cactus. Our Alaskan skin has been shocked with the suns rays and is now turning a beautiful brown.

We had a quick stop over in Guerrero Negro after the first desert. We rolled in at about 5pm. After just two days I felt like something more like a week had passed. We checked into the cheapest hotel we could find and the priority was obvious. Shower time. Water has never felt so soothing. I worshiped every minute we were indoors out of the direct sunlight. The next day we slept and gave our bikes much needed maintenance. It was what we needed to get our tank back to full. Somehow though, the desert acted as a time warp because it was Sunday and I was certain it was only Friday.

Yesterday was the toughest though. We left Guerrero Negro, MX at 7am and decided we could make it 150km throught the desert to the Oasis of San Ignacio. Bad idea but rewarding nonetheless. After having lunch at the half way marker the sun was high in the sky. It was hard to get going but we did. Along with another cyclist Fausto who we met that morning we gave it all we had for 20km. We had no shade and the water in our bottles could have easily brewed a cup of tea. I had a head ache probably from dehydration and we still had 60km to go. We pulled off the road and sloppily made our way some some bushes. I found a small bridge underwhich I sought refuge from the firey sun. We slept for almost 1 and half hours and decided to head on.

As it turns out and this is true most of the time. We still had a long way to go and a few hill climbs to make. By 6pm with desert stil spread out as far as we could see after the hill I thought was the last I was nearly ready to throw up. Oki kicked on with his very clever bandana tucked under his helmet and hipster orange sunnies leading the way. Fausto was out in front since he has about half as much gear as we do. The sun was setting but it was still furiously hot. I know my riding was getting sloppy (this happens when im on my last leg). After two m ore hills and talking myself out of quitting we FINALLY rolled through the military checkpoint and into San Ignacio. San Ignacio is a natural Oasis fed by springs. Upon arrival at our campsite we dove into the water and met two more cyclists who had done the same route earlier in the day along with two hitch hikers. Here is the view from our campsite .

Victory! Succes!

After a swim the team of now 5 cyclist went out to the shops for food and beer. We returned and spent the night around a fire beneath a clear sky spattered with stars and the full moon. At the end of each day in the desert the Great Dipper serves as a sweet reminder that everything will be ok and someone is watching over us. Thank you for your comments, thoughts and prayers. Pictures to come soon.

By admin on March 30, 2010 | Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Traded a 25f bag for a hammock. Mexico Tommorow!

It feels like Christmas Eve. I have anxiety about an exciting day tomorrow. Tomorrow we cross the Mexican border at Tijuana and continue south to Colombia. We like to think that up to this point in the bike tour we have been merely training. The last three weeks in LA have been essential for logistics, moral and emotional preparation.
Tomorrow is the begging of the real ride. After hopping off a trolley in San Ysidro, CA we will pedal towards the Tijuana and hopefully finish our day in Rosarito, MX camping as the sunsets and we breathe a sigh of relief. Here is a day in the life of the Que Hubo Bike Tour:

6.00am Rise and shine as the sun comes up.
6.30am Pack up, have a high calorie brekky while discussing interesting dreams over mochas or hotchocolate.
8.00am Start pedaling
10.00am Break. Sometimes for food sometimes for Yoga
10.20am Keep pedaling

12noon or 1pm LUNCH HOUR Usually eat sandwiches, dry out clothes, chat, take photos and admire a time to rest.

2.00pm Continue pedaling
4.00pm Begin looking for a place to camp or stay
5.00pm Finish riding for the day. Take off our smelly shoes and chamois and set up camp
6.45pm Cook by headlamp light. Cous cous and rice have been our favourite. Always with cheese!
7.30 Read, call home if possible, write in our journals, star gaze
8.30pm Bedtime. Goodnight Oki, Goodnight Erika. Then we do it all over again. We have been on the road for 35 days so far.

Looking ahead we will be in Rosarito, MX March 21st, Ensenada on the 22nd and then we will just have to see……

Here is a map of what we have already covered. Please go to Oki’s blog for his latest video blog which includes details in our decision to ride a train from LA to San Ysidro, CA and interesting insight to our gear regime.

By admin on March 20, 2010 | Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

2000km Bellingham, WA to LA, CA Complete

Friends, readers and followers. We have arrived in Los Angeles, CA. The USA portion of this journey is almost complete. America has been very eye opening. As many of you already know I went to school in Australia when I was 19 and wished never to return to America. I held a bitterness towards the country where I grew up. Cruising the ~2000 km down the west coast has changed the bitterness. This land is flooded with generous people with kind hearts and good intentions. I do wish the corporate sprawl would not over ride local business but they are always nestled in if you just ask the locals and slow down enough to look.

The most challenging days between San Francisco and LA were just outside of Santa Cruz. Big Sur was hard climb. Dense fog impeded our visibility….we couldn’t see where the hill was ending or starting. All we followed was our very good friend the white line on the right side of the road. We were told that the water along the coast of Pfieffer State Park was a beautiful blue. We saw it for a second when the fog cleared.

This stretch of the ride has been the wettest. We woke up damp in our sleeping bags cacooned in soggy tents from condensation and put on our damp riding clothes from the day before. One night in Lucia, CA after a soggy cous cous dinner under our tarp we settled into our tents. At about 11pm the rain started. It poured and I thought about getting up to ensure the bikes didn’t get wet but I was exhausted. In the morning as we arose like amphibians out of our soggy beds we noticed oatmeal everywhere. Raccoons!!! Oscar had left open one pannier and a critter had a feast. I had closed every pannier as usual but to my dismay there was about 1/2 and inch of water at the bottom of each bag….and 50 miles to anywhere indoors. Oh well we trucked on. I’ve learned to struggle and view the struggle as the means of feeling accomplished. Each hill was worth the climb, a hot shower has never felt this good. Clean laundry has never smelled so sweet. A mattress is lovely when it used hold no significance. We stayed at the hostel in Cambria, CA the next evening to dry out. We met fellow wanders of the earth and shared our stories. We all had different means of transport but we were all scouring the earth for beauty, community, purpose and finding out a lot about ourselves along the way. I love how you can instantly talk about “your story” and your purpose with travelers. There we met Elaine. A widow who has lived and loved, settled and is now wandering. She was an inspiration because her passion for life at her age is so rare. She seemed to have the curiosity and enthusiasm for exploring that we did. We got a well deserved rest in Cambria lying on the grass near the water just like the local Elephant Seals. It was what we needed.

Just quietly I tip my hat to the owners of the hostel who collected rain water, composted food scraps, recycled and powered the old 115 year old house with the sun. This is more what we need. If you are ever in the area stay over a night or two.

The days that followed yielded more rain and we had our first sleep in a train station. Amazing how grateful and comfortable such a place can be after a long days ride with the rain pouring outside. Brick floor is 5 star.

We’ve now arrived in LA after the sweetest stay with our travel buddy Ryan Hill. His family welcomed us to Santa Barbara with a Egg plant Lasagna dinner and made us feel like heros. Thank You.

We are taking a well needed rest to plan and prep for Mexico and beyond. We will be staying in LA until the end of March getting vaccines, bike tune ups, and trying to get the sparkly clean and expensive look off our panniers before Central America. We think rice bags will be a good cover for them.

There aren’t many photos for this leg of the trip because of the rain but we will be updating through out these weeks so stay tuned. When I talk to my folks back home and friends they mention words I’ve written here. If you have ever started a blog you know how much it means when you hear from your readers. Im glad I can delight your days with our stories. Ill continue to do so even as internet access becomes harder. We have sent the lap top and iphone back but this is for you. Hopefully it can steal you away for a moment from your desk at work or chores at home. Thank you again for your comments, thoughts, and prayers. Over and out.

By admin on March 3, 2010 | Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

My Team

Bike Expedition of the Americas